Before you chase power, put that power down. Better tires improve acceleration, braking, and cornering. If you're tuned or doing hard pulls, tires become the limiting factor immediately. You can have 400 whp, but if you're spinning on stock all-seasons, you're not actually faster.

My take: This is one of those unsexy mods that makes a bigger real-world difference than most bolt-ons. Skip the Instagram flex and get rubber that hooks.

Many FL5 owners move to 18-inch wheels for more sidewall (better comfort + grip on real roads), better tire selection and pricing, and improved performance on imperfect surfaces. The stock 19s look aggressive, but 18s with a 35 or 40 sidewall just work better for street driving.

Not mandatory. Some people stay on 19s for aesthetics or specific setups. It comes down to your priorities — looks vs. practicality.

Start with an intake because it's easy, improves throttle response, and gives you that "the car is alive" feeling. Plus, turbo noises.

Rule of thumb: Stock MAF size = no tune required. Larger MAF = tune before you drive it.

Intercooler early is underrated. You're not chasing peak dyno numbers yet — you're building consistency and keeping charge temps under control before you add exhaust flow and boost. Heat soak kills power and invites knock. An upgraded intercooler prevents that.

My take: Do this before you tune if you're serious about the car. A good intercooler is insurance against inconsistent power and potential engine damage down the line. Popular options: MDR (my personal choice — great fitment, strong IAT drops, solid value), PRL (tube & fin, premium build), COBB, HKS, PWR. Pick based on your budget and fitment tolerance.

If you upgrade charge pipes, here's what actually works:

• Cold side (intercooler to throttle body): Larger diameter is good — increases airflow and reduces restriction
• Hot side (turbo to intercooler): Keep it stock diameter — maintains turbo spool response
• Material upgrade: 4-ply silicone couplers are way better than stock rubber (no expansion under boost, heat resistant)

What NOT to do: Don't go oversized on the hot side thinking "bigger = better." You'll add lag with zero benefit at stock turbo power levels.

My take: Charge pipes are a "while you're in there" mod when doing the intercooler. Not mandatory, but the silicone upgrade alone is worth it if you're pushing boost or track the car.

Do this sooner than most people do. An upgraded RMM reduces wheel hop, improves throttle response feel, tightens up shifts (especially 1st-2nd), and keeps the drivetrain stable under load.

It's one of those mods you feel every single time you drive. Launches hook better, the car feels more connected, and you stop fighting that sloppy stock mount every time you shift hard.

This is the real exhaust flow upgrade on the FL5. Doing these together is one of the best value combos you can do:

• Inlet pipe: Helps the turbo breathe (removes restriction before the compressor)
• Downpipe: Opens up the most restrictive section (turbo to mid-pipe)
• Front pipe: Continues the flow improvement (downpipe to catback connection)

Why this combo matters: Meaningful flow improvement, better sound, stronger response, and you don't need a full catback to see the gains. The downpipe alone is worth 20-30 whp when tuned.

Tuning is honestly the best bang for the buck and the fastest way to unlock power — but it requires jailbreaking the ECU (Hondata or COBB). You can do this at any stage of your build, but I'd personally do it before or during the downpipe install since the downpipe makes the biggest difference when paired with a proper tune.

I strongly recommend starting with a Phearable basemap, then refining from there. Once airflow changes start stacking up (intake, intercooler, exhaust), a proper custom tune makes everything work together.

Best practice: Retune after every major change. Install the part, log it, refine the calibration. Don't stack mods and hope for the best.

Expected gains: A good Stage 1 tune (bolt-ons + downpipe + tune) typically sees 50-60 whp and 60-70 wtq over stock. That's real, usable power.

For street cars, springs are usually the best value. They improve stance, body control, and overall feel without breaking the bank or requiring constant adjustment.

Daily comfort picks: Eibach Pro-Kit, H&R, TEIN High.Tech (mild drop, OEM-friendly ride). Balanced: J's Racing, Spoon (progressive design, responsive handling). Aggressive: Swift Spec-R, Eibach Sportline, TEIN S.Tech (firmer, sharper, more drop). Pick based on how much drop you want and how much stiffness you can tolerate daily.

Don't buy coilovers just because it's the "next mod." Coilovers make sense if you track often, do serious suspension tuning, or need adjustability for alignment/tire setup/driving style.

If it's mainly street driving, springs + proper alignment is the smarter spend. You'll save $1,500-2,500 and get 90% of the handling improvement.

My take: The FL5's factory suspension is actually really good. Honda spent years dialing it in. Unless you're chasing lap times or need specific ride height adjustability, springs are the move.

These depend on how low you go, your wheel/tire setup, and how hard you drive:

• Rear camber arms (if lowered to dial in camber)
• Rear toe arms (fine-tune rear alignment)
• Front camber plates/top mounts (for track setups)
• Adjustable end links (if running sway bars)
• Alignment (highly recommended after any suspension change)

A short shifter doesn't make power, but it makes the car more enjoyable every time you drive it. Shorter throws, more mechanical feel, less slop. It fits best around the time you're dialing in "how the car feels" overall — alongside suspension and drivetrain mods.

Once you've done the main airflow + tune, keep stacking reliability. Oil temps and coolant temps matter more as you add power and drive harder.

Priority upgrades: Oil cooler first (especially for track or repeated highway pulls), then radiator if you're in a hot climate or doing extended track sessions. Cooling plates and ducting improvements help too.

My take: If you live somewhere hot or you track the car, don't skip this. Heat kills engines. An oil cooler is cheap insurance.

If you're doing spirited street driving, canyon runs, or track days, brake upgrades should move up the list. The stock brakes are good, but they fade under repeated hard use.

Common upgrade path:

• Brake fluid first (high-temp fluid like Motul RBF 660)
• Pads (street/track compound as needed — Pagid, Ferodo, EBC Yellowstuff)
• Rotors (when stock wear out or for track durability)
• Big brake kit (for repeated track use or high-speed braking demands)

My take: For casual street use, stock brakes with upgraded fluid and pads are plenty. If you track the car or drive like you're in a reel... yeah, you might need brakes sooner than later.

Don't waste money on a full catback too early. A full catback system typically doesn't add much performance compared to the downpipe + front pipe combo. If budget matters, skip the catback and put that money into something more meaningful — fueling, cooling, tires, or brakes — stuff that actually makes the car faster and more consistent.

That's not saying an exhaust is a waste. It's just not a top priority unless your goal is sound and vibes.

Extra tip: Some people pull the exhaust valve fuse to keep the valve open all the time. Google it and do it at your own risk.

My take: If you want better tone without blowing your budget, downpipe + front pipe + resonator delete gets you 90% of the way there for way less money than a full catback system.

Once the car is making power consistently and driving the way you want, aero becomes a great "finishing" stage — especially if you're doing track days. Front splitters, side skirts, rear diffusers, and wings all add downforce and stability at speed.

My take: Aero looks cool, but it only matters functionally if you're driving at speeds where downforce actually helps. For street builds, it's mostly aesthetic. For track builds, it's performance.

Before you even think about bolting on a bigger turbo: HPFP upgrade and injectors. The stock fuel system can't support big turbo power levels safely.

Recommended setup: Full-Race HPFP (68% more flow than stock, supports 830 whp on gas / 700 whp on E85) + 1400cc or 2000cc injectors (Hondata 1530cc or XDI 1400cc are popular).

LPFP consideration: If you're going E85 or targeting 500+ whp, you'll also need a low-pressure fuel pump upgrade (in-tank pump).

Once fueling is in place: turbo kit, return plumbing / supporting hardware, then tune for the new setup.

Popular options: MHI Stage 2, RV6 R660, Garrett G25-660, Full-Race kits. Pick based on power goals and budget.

Big turbo builds don't like shortcuts. Treat it like a system: install, log, revise, repeat. Work with a good tuner who knows the platform. Don't try to DIY this unless you really know what you're doing.